II. Old Houses in San Miguel, Bulacan

Soon after returning to the Philippines a few years ago, I was able to join an organized old house tour in San Miguel, Bulacan. San Miguel is an interesting old town. It’s not particularly progressive or wealthy today, but a hundred years ago it was filthy rich, because all the landowners used it as their residential base for managing their haciendas in Bulacan, Pampanga, and Nueva Ecija – San Miguel is at the junction of these three provinces. The hot springs in Sibul, within San Miguel town limits, provided an added attraction – Sibul was the de factor summer capital for Manila residents before Baguio became popular. And it helped that the railway ran from Manila straight into the middle of the town.

After World War II, many things changed, just as elsewhere in the country. The big haciendas were broken up by land reform. The railway ceased to be operational. Other vacation destinations became more accessible – Baguio, Tagaytay, even just La Mesa Dam. Today, very few people have heard of Sibul Springs, much less actually been there. And so San Miguel today is a quiet old town that just happens to have plenty of large beautiful old houses, many of them sadly in disrepair. A window into the town’s glorious and wealthy past indeed, but not significantly more than that.

The old-house tour that I joined had for most of its participants architects from Manila, and it was conducted by a kindly old gentleman from one of the town’s more prominent families. I realized early on, though, that his main function was to get us access to the old houses, and nothing much more. Basically we were left to fend for ourselves and wander through the rooms and take photos and ask each other questions, which we’d just try to guess the answers to. 

But at least we were able to enter these beautiful old houses. One of them was the Maximo Viola House. This was a simple straightforward structure, with a large yard and garden as its best feature. I don’t recall exactly, but I think it may have dated from early in the 20^th century (rather than the late 19^th century) because of its architectural style. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures when I was there, but there might have been a year of construction on the pediment. I’ll check if I ever manage to return.

There was also the Hidalgo house, and I remember that this one did have a year on the pediment: 1930. It’s very similar in size and style to the Maximo Viola house. I couldn’t take pictures in this one, as it was being used for a movie shoot when I was there. What was interesting was that it had recently been purchased by a local entrepreneur, and was then already being referred to as the “Glo-Herbal” house, after the entrepreneur’s venture. 

Thankfully, the new owner had thoroughly renovated the house. This made it suitable for movie shoots. Less impressively, the wide yard of the house had been converted into “resort facilities” – swimming pools, water slides, eating places, parking, etc. I guess that helps pay the restoration bills, but it was all rather in bad taste, in my view.

I also got to visit three other houses: the Sempio House, the Pablo Tecson House, and the Sevilla-De Leon-Joson House. These three houses are truly interesting, although for quite different reasons.

Originally published on 7 August 2006.  Copyright ©2006 by Leo D Cloma. The moral right of Leo D Cloma to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted.

I. Adventures of an Akyat-Bahay Gang (of One)

Since returning to the Philippines after some years of studying, working, and living abroad, I’ve had more opportunities to nurture and sharpen one of my long-running interests: old Filipino houses.

I’m not in a very small group – lots of people really like Philippine Ancestral Houses (that’s the title of that truly ground-breaking book published when I was still a schoolboy that gave a kick-start to getting more people interested in this subject). And these people probably like them for a number of common reasons: “a part of our heritage,” “a window into the past,” “a connection to our ancestors,” etc.

Those are all fine reasons for being interested in old houses, but I guess I’m slightly more practical and rational, since I like them because of the following:

1. They’re big. Certainly bigger than the average dwelling today. I come from a long line of pack-rats and anal-retentives, so my family and I tend to accumulate and never throw anything. Books, records, CDs, DVDs, magazines, and the furniture to hold them. We need space. The kind of space that usually only old houses are able to provide naturally.

2. They have plenty of wood. I’m a wood fetishist. I like to see and smell and feel smooth narra and balayong and molave and kamagong planks and panels. And if you must know, they taste good too. (A wood fetishist would know this.)

3. They are perfectly suited to Philippine climactic conditions. Their high ceilings (twelve feet is not uncommon; higher than that is not remarkable) ensure that hot air stays far above the heads of the residents. The wide windows, permanently-open doors, and “ventanillas” also allow natural cross-ventilation. There is therefore hardly a need for costly airconditioning. The capiz windows keep rain out but let diffused light in. And if you want it really dark, no need for cloth curtains (those just attract dust, which is really abundant around here) – just slide the wooden persiana panels into position.

4. Despite their overall large size, they’re actually efficient users of scarce land. Their ground floors are garages and storerooms and servants’ quarters – no need for annexes or extensions or wings for these areas. And a third storey is not frowned upon – practical for having more bedrooms, or a library, or a ballroom. The overall structure thus approaches the dimensions of a perfect cube – really the most floor area and volume for the least footprint.

5. I could list other rational reasons for favouring old houses, but my last key reason is this: they’re beautiful, aesthetically innovative, and visually charming.

This last point is difficult to explain rationally without seeing actual examples, which in fact is how I came to slowly realize this characteristic of old houses. At first I joined one or two so-called “heritage tours” but came away unsatisfied because they tended to be conducted too quickly, and there was frequently inadequate explanation of the history and background of the house, of its construction, or of the original residents.

So I did my own self-guided tours. Usually alone. I became a one-man akyat (lumang)-bahay gang.

Originally published on 7 August 2006.  All text and photos (except where attributed otherwise) copyright ©2012 Leo D Cloma. The moral right of Leo D Cloma to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted.

Original Comments:

emelynt wrote on Apr 24, '07 Have you visited any old houses in Manila? I remember visiting a house in Mendoza Street, Quiapo and watching a parade with big higante paper mache. I don't think they do this anymore. we sat on the floor peeked thru the ventanillas (tama ba yun? I remember you slide the cover and peek thru bars) para hindi mahulog sa bintana. It must have been the late 60's because it was before we moved to Quezon City. I believe the house has been torn down because Papa and I tried looking for it in the 90's only to find apartments (townhouse style). Do you know of any heritage homes in Manila that have not been converted into restaurants or museums?

rally65 wrote on Apr 24, '07 Unfortunately I have yet to do a Manila akyat-bahay visit. Admittedly they are becoming increasingly rare, and the few that exist are no longer private homes. But I'll keep looking.

emelynt wrote on Apr 24, '07, edited on Apr 24, '07 Thanks Leo for maintaining this site. Looking at the pictures (ambassador sets, the aparadors,the houses) has really piqued my interest in Philippine architecture and style. You 've done a good job of taking us on a tour of the historical homes in a casual, entertaining but informative way (I esp. like the juxtaposition of then and now pictures of some of the old homes you have visited) and in my opinion, knowing the (personal) details about owners is not THAT important. I suppose we can always look at the history books to go into details about past owners (kaso baka naman ako makatulog nun! hehehehe..jk). Thanks again. :)

rally65 wrote on Apr 24, '07 You're welcome, Emelyn, and thanks for the favorable feedback. Keep checking this site regularly -- there are many many more (yet-to-be-written) articles, all waiting in a long queue inside my head. Ha ha.

arcastro57 wrote on Apr 25, '07 Keep on climbing!

pauloruiz92 wrote on Jul 21, '07 Ancestral houses are the only physical links between us and our ancestors.

rally65 wrote on Jul 22, '07 Paulo and family -- absolutely, that's why they are so fascinating and engaging for me. Thanks for visiting, and keep on climbing! (Thanks, Alex, for that line.)

jorjemrey wrote on Nov 4, '10 An uncle e-mailed me about this site. The house in Tampoy belonged to my great grandfather Ramon de Leon. Your name sounds familiar. Are you by any chance related to Mrs. Dulay?

rally65 wrote on Nov 4, '10 Thanks for the visit. If you're referring to Mrs. Dolores Dulay, former English and Mathematics instructor from the Bulacan High School / Marcelo H. del Pilar High School, she was my grandmother (my mother's mother). She helped raise me before she died in 1972. Were you one of her students?

jorjemrey wrote on Nov 4, '10 I wasn't one of her students but we were neighbors. We used to live in the house next to hers at the back of the Capitol building. You and my sister, Joy, used to play together as toddlers.

rally65 wrote on Nov 4, '10 What a pleassant surprise. I remember very little of those years when we were living behind the Capitolio -- we moved away in 1970, when I was just four years old. If you are ever back in Malolos, please visit us in nearby Barangay Guinhawa (you can just ask around for my mother Mrs. Editha Cloma -- everyone knows her).