Monday, October 26, 2015

XL. SS-Files: Holy Week in Bayan, Malolos, Bulacan, Part Two

Like with Barasoain, I haven’t yet managed to take photos of Bayan’s Calvario tableau. And although I have seen it a few times some years back, neither have I photographed the very striking Descent from the Cross, at once surreal and very Filipino in conception. Those are two more of my photography tasks for the future.

Because it is only prepared by around mid-day of Good Friday, I have also not yet photographed Bayan’s Santo Entierro all dressed and made-up . So now I draw on my vast reserves of akyat-bahay experience, and give you an idea of how it must look like when readied for the Friday evening procession.

The image of the Dead Christ and its calandra were commissioned in the first half of the 20th century by a prominent Malolos physician and philanthropist, Luis Uitangcoy Santos, actually the second son of Alberta, the original owner of the Pagkarapâ that we got to see previously. Dr. Luis’ beautiful 1933 Art Deco Mansion sits diagonally across his mother’s house and directly across the home of the Tantoco family, who now care for his mother’s processional tableau.

Stylistically, the calandra is American colonial neo-classical in look and feel, and so might just be contemporary with the good doctor’s own home. When Dr. Luis died in the early 1980’s, both home and paso passed to his only son and heir, Dr. Sabino “Benny” Santos, yet another prominent Malolos physician and philanthropist.

I had the rare privilege of being Dr. Benny’s guest last year, at which time I was not only given a personalized tour of his father’s indescribably beautiful home, but was also allowed to view and photograph the image of the Dead Christ, now resting on the late Dr. Luis’ bed in the master bedroom.




I imagine that earlier in its life, and certainly when good old Dr. Luis was still using his bed, this image was properly garbed and placed inside a calandra for home veneration, probably in the beautiful house chapel on the second floor of the mansion.

Part of the Santos house tour involved a peep (actually a full-blown walk-through) into the garage at the rear, where the calandra is parked. Here is what I saw:









Despite the tarnished silver fittings at present, this was obviously an impressive processional vehicle in its day. I imagine that a proper restoration would bring back all its original glory effortlessly.







On the morning of Good Friday, I once again availed of my not-inconsiderable akhat-bahay skills to espy the calandra being prepared for that day’s evening procession. Photography was easier this time as it was parked in the expansive front driveway of the Santos House and natural lighting was abundant and of the right intensity.










Sharp-eyed readers will notice, somewhat uncomfortably, that there are what appear to be tiny Christmas lights outlining this calandra’s panels. I guess that this is just to match up with the Christmas-y way that the neighboring Barasoain Parish’s Dolorosa has been dressed up this year. Ha ha.

Nonetheless, the intensity of its original design shines through in detail and close-up, as seen in these next photos.






Again, because of my earlier-than-preferable schedule for Good Friday photography, I haven’t yet been able to shoot this calandra when it was all dressed up for the procession. Hopefully next year then.

The mourners come next. First up is Santa Veronica, a beautiful antique image from yet another of the formidable Women of Malolos, Teresa Tiongson Tantoco. She and her daughter Anita commissioned this image early in the 20th century from the Maximo Vicente Workshop.



Even in simpler home garb, the elegant antiquity of this processional image remains clearly evident.










The processional image of Santa Maria Cleofe was parked inside the Cathedral a few Holy Weeks ago, and that’s where I was able to photograph it.




To my eyes, it’s a fair image, not particularly beautiful, but fortunately not folksy at all either.

The image of Santa Maria Salome was being readied for mounting on its carroza in the workshop of the carroza decorator, and that is where I was able to take up-close photos of it.







This is one of the most beautiful religious images that I have seen with my own eyes; in fact, I feel that it is too pretty (and perhaps not too sorrowful enough) to be used as the processional image of one of the Holy Women of the Passion.

This next image of a Holy Woman of the Passion, elegantly dressed in mourning and photographed on its carroza while parked inside the Cathedral on Good Friday morning, is apparently the new image of Santa Maria Cleofe in Bayan, replacing the one dressed in red and yellow in the photograph above, taken a few years earlier. It is yet unknown what has become of that previous Cleofe image.






The processional image of Santa Maria Magdalena is unfortunately not as impressive as I feel it ought to be, given the stature of this Parish.






The head seems rather folksily-carved to me, or maybe it’s just her overall garb and the somewhat strange way that the mourning veil has been placed on her – again overtones of “peninsular pretension.” Oh well.

The penultimate image in the line-up, San Juan Evangelista, looks to be a fairly well-made antique image, but is slightly disadvantaged by too loose-fitting garments. And at first glance, I thought that the Sacred Heart had been conscripted into the Holy Week processions as well.







Perhaps Saint John’s traditional colors of green and red would be more appropriate instead – what do you think?

The chief mourner, the Dolorosa, brings up the rear of the Holy Week processions. The Bayan processional image of the Most Sorrowful Mother is one more early 20th century commission from another of the redoubtable Women of Malolos, in this case Basilia Villariño Tantoco, quite possibly the wealthiest lady in the Malolos of her day, an enterprising spinster who was also extremely pious yet very generous with her near-unlimited largesse.









A few Holy Wednesdays ago, she was elegantly dressed in a thick blue manto, already relatively restrained as far as Dolorosa dressing is concerned, I guess.



For Good Friday this year, the Dolorosa was suitably dressed in all-black mourning garments, although I felt that there was a bit too much bulk and volume to her appearance.







She also benefited this year from a chariot-style carroza, a newly-made but well-designed and -executed processional vehicle in silver-painted wood, inspired by numerous antique silver chariot carrozas often used for festive Marian images to this day.















The use of this grand “AVM” carroza to bring up the rear of the Holy Week processions is probably appropriate enough for what we should remember is the Parish of the Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception.

And so ends our review of the Holy Week processional line-up in Bayan Malolos. A fair number of gaps exist in this survey, but that just means that I already have my SS-Files written up in my head for next Holy Week. Just a few more months of waiting then!


Originally published 13 July 2007.  All text and photos copyright ©2007 by Leo D Cloma. The moral right of Leo D Cloma to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted.

Original comments:
jvlian2 wrote on Jul 14, '07, edited on Jul 14, '07
hmmmmm,,, dami pa nga kulang,, haha, pero okay nmn ang paghihintay,,, (ang dami mo na tuloy assignments for nex year) [at naunahan ko si jay hehehe]

Hindi ako nakikipagkumpetensya sa'yo. Haha. Ganda ng Salome. Parang Inmaculada.

Galing Leo! :D

mukhang damit ng nazareno yung sa magdalena,,, hehehe 

I actually prefer the Magdalena over the Salome. In my opinion the latter's too prettified and overly saccharine face with the mapupungay na mga mata is to bland and lacking in character. The nose is imperfect as well. The inappropriate cut of the vestment with the use of the guimpe makes her look like a nun.On the other hand, I think the Magdalena only needs to lose the peineta and veil and have the cape draped correctly to be impressive.
I suspect that the Salome actually does double duty as a Marian image -- I need to investigate. And yes, perhaps I should try to photograph the Magdalena in "domestic mode," so that we can see how it really looks like without all that unnecessary garb.
I've updated the text to identify the Holy Woman dressed in all-black mourning garments as the new image of Santa Maria Cleofe. (Thanks to our Malolos Bayan correspondent.) Please see above.
Hmmm.. Great shots! Mas marami ka pang alam about this kesa sa taga malolos mismo like me..LOL
sweettoothshaven said
Hmmm.. Great shots! Mas marami ka pang alam about this kesa sa taga malolos mismo like me..LOL
Oh, I'm from Malolos myself -- I've lived there all my life (except for the obligatory OFW periods abroad).

Thanks for visiting my somewhat Malolos-oriented blogsite -- please keep checking back regularly.
rally65 said
Oh, I'm from Malolos myself -- I've lived there all my life (except for the obligatory OFW periods abroad).
Thanks for visiting my somewhat Malolos-oriented blogsite -- please keep checking back regularly. 
Yeah i read it late.. Taga malolos ka din pala..hehehe! I was just searching for some multipliers nearby and I saw your site. Nice Photography. Where ka po exactly sa malolos? I am from Lugam..;-p