IV. Ampalaya Gothic at the Tecson House in San Miguel, Bulacan

In very many ways, the Tecson House is superior to the Sempio House on the same street, just a couple of gates away. In fact, I dare say that it is the best house in San Miguel, especially considering the respective current states of the various other houses in this town. Because of this, the Tecson House has got to be the most photographed San Miguel house – for example, it is featured heavily in Zialcita and Tinio’s Philippine Ancestral Houses, and its unusual Gothic-Victorian-Moorish-Art Nouveau façade is flatteringly showed-off in at least two other books, San Miguel de Mayumo and Bulakan: Lalawigan ng Bayani at Bulaklak.

I’m a bit of a spoil-sport, so I won’t show you pictures of that façade here. You’ll have to buy those other books I cited – they’re actually very good additions to your Filipiniana library. (Actually, the real story is that I couldn’t get good shots from across the street as there were vehicles parked and various other obstacles. So there.) Instead, I did take what I consider to be a more revelatory view—a photograph of the house’s left-side elevation, which shows not only the prodigious size of the structure, but also a tiny portion of its wide winding driveway and vast unpartitioned yard, perhaps around 5,000 square meters, all told.

Actually, I had visited the Tecson House at least once before, some years ago, together with a group. We had just come from the Sempio House (previous article) and the Sevilla-De Leon-Joson House (planned next article), and unfortunately, I had totally used up my camera’s battery by the time we got to the Tecson. Since then, I’ve gotten older and wiser and have remembered to always bring two camera battery packs with me. 

At that time, I had observed just how well-preserved and -maintained this house was, as if everything was in much the same way as it was at the turn of the 20^th century, when the structure was still relatively new at perhaps twenty or so years old. What is interesting about this is that there obviously isn’t any conscious attempt to make it a “museum house”—it’s still a functional private home, used by its now city-based owners as a weekend or vacation base. Here’s the secret to this exceptional state of preservation: meticulous and regular renovations. Sharp-eyed readers will have noticed the scaffolding in the photograph above. Yes, the Tecson House was undergoing its (allegedly) third top-down renovation since the 1980’s. How many of us have even done one such thorough renovation of our lesser habitations?

To match its expansive driveway and yard, the ground floor is not just a silong but a full-height (minimum 14 feet) zaguan, with enough parking slots for your fleet of horse-drawn carriages (or Rolls-Royce Phantom VI limousines). Originally, the only access was from the front and center of the house, through these closed doors:

Innovatively, previous renovations not only made the side driveway wind its way to the far portion of the yard, but also built a very utilitarian porte cochere under the azotea at the rear of the house. 

A third recent modification, and this one is the most important, is that a new full-height door was punched through the center-rear wall of the zaguan, perfectly aligned with the original front doors.

This means that you don’t ever have to get wet even in pouring rain, and even if you’re driving yourself—just call the maids on your mobile phone to open the gates to the side driveway, then drive up to the rear entrance, and park your vehicle inside the spacious zaguan. Just be sure not to bump these two permanently-parked vehicles there—I wonder what they could be?

We next make our way through these gates—the wrought-iron ones on the right, not the ones that look like a jail cell on the left.

Walk up the wide wooden steps while admiring the balusters that are stylishly disguised as intricately-carved ampalaya vines (with their telltale leaves and wrinkly fruits).

Stop to admire the vertigo-inducing parquet on the floor of the landing.

If not refused admission by the two checkpoint guards, keep going upstairs. Anyway, they’re naked, so they have other problems at this time. Besides, they’ve been known to ignore all visitors ever since they took up position here. Good help has always been difficult to get.

That door to the right leads to what would have been the master’s office. This conveniently avoids having the landlord transact business with his farm tenants on the second floor (too fancy and intrusive) or the ground floor (too crowded and full of sacks of rice that the tenants would have been “submitting” to the boss). 

Finally, we’re at the famous grand Tecson staircase, which just like the façade, is not only a showcase of fusion Gothic-Moorish-Victorian-Art Nouveau ideas, but is also a very frequently photographed part of this house. My shot outdoes all those others by keeping people in view (for scale, so you can see just how wide it really all is) and by showing it with scaffolding in the ceiling above (as further proof that the best things are nurtured by regular maintenance).

This is yet another San Miguel house with a historical connection: Emilio Aguinaldo, the first president of the first Philippine republic, supposedly slept in an intricately-carved somewhat-overdone Victorian-Gothic wooden bed in one of the two bedrooms in the front part of the house, while in negotiations with the Spanish colonial government that led to the Pact of Biak-na-Bato in 1897. The house’s original owner, Don Pablo Tecson (or was it his brother, Don Simon Tecson—reports are conflicting), was a friend of the General. 

The bed is still there, permanently immortalized as the “Aguinaldo Bed.” As such, I doubt that anyone else has been allowed to use it since. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of the piece, as due to the then on-going renovations, it was all covered with dust and piled high with wall mirrors and other furnishings set aside. Aguinaldo must be turning in his grave. (Or in his bed.) Instead, let me share with you what might have been the “Aguinaldo aparador,” as well as the “Aguinaldo rocking chair” right in front of it—okay, the chair is rather small, but I don’t believe old “Miong” was a tall man, was he?

In what is really the master bedroom of this three-bedroom (and one toilet / bath!) home, just off the hallway to the rear of the second floor, are stored three identical antique beds,

as well as a beautiful antique chest of drawers, possibly in balayong, with heavily twisted columns in front. Again, please excuse the dust and the debris—we’re renovating.

The Victorian-Moorish-Gothic-Art Nouveau design theme is consistently and tirelessly lavished on all details of the house, especially on the second floor. From the hallway:

to the dining room that's fenced-off from the hallway by two entire walls of persiana shutters--though they won't keep out the flies, they'll prevent drop-in visitors from seeing what you're having for lunch:

to the top part of the doorway of the master bedroom, you’ll know that you’re still in the same house. That was one truly hardworking carpenter (whose boss had a fetish for ampalaya) doing all that work, over a century ago.

However, my favorite details on the second floor are two innovations. First, horizontally-split doors to the dining room—to keep out the dogs, or pesky children?

And a long central skylight in the hallway’s ceiling, averting domestic accidents in what would have been a permanently dark windowless space, even in daytime.

Now for the (relatively obvious) answer to the mystery question. Those two shrouded (in plastic tarpaulin available in Divisoria) objects on the ground floor are antique silver carrozas. One is a round carroza, and the other an ochovado (eight-sided) one. The former is for a Holy Week processional image of San Pedro:

And the latter, for a Holy Week processional image of the Dolorosa:

It’s interesting that not only does the Tecson House have two antique Holy Week processional images, just like the Sempio House (the Last Supper tableau and the Veronica image), but also that the Tecsons had chosen the ones that make up the very front and the very rear of the traditional processional line-up. I was told that the family would simply assign half their numerous servants and hacienda tenants to walk with the San Pedro, and the other half with the Dolorosa. (Since it is unlikely that ordinary mortals like us, with normal-sized families and usually no more than one maid, would have tenants, much less haciendas, we will need to acquire the ability to bilocate if we had the responsibility for more than one Holy Week processional carroza each.)

I personally wouldn’t mind paying for the upkeep of two life-sized processional images and their silver carrozas, if I could live in a house like this. If I COULD afford to live in a house like this, including paying for the regular renovations and grounds maintenance, I don’t think that I would be the type to have mundane budgetary problems anyway. In any case, I’ll be sure to constantly seek the intercession of Saint Peter and the Sorrowful Virgin to help me stay solvent and keep the healthy cash flow coming in, just as the present-day generation of Tecson heirs seems to be able to do, which allows them to maintain their prized heirloom – a real masterpiece of Filipino architecture and design from the late 19^th century.

Originally published on 11 August 2006.  All text and photos copyright ©2006 by Leo D. Cloma. The moral right of Leo D. Cloma to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted.

Original comments:

37 Comments

larryorquejr wrote on Aug 13, '06 Beautiful house indeed!!!

rally65 wrote on Aug 13, '06 This is perhaps not yet the very best -- there's another San Miguel house that is definitely worth looking at. And a truly magnificent house in Malolos that I was able to visit just this past weekend. Stay tuned.

arcastro57 wrote on Aug 14, '06 If I were to star in "Somewhere In Time", this is the house I will choose to live in. Imagine, old furniture, santos, carrozas..all my interests, under one roof!

rally65 wrote on Aug 14, '06 Agree with you, Alex, those are indeed the essential elements of traditional Filipino life. But the primary component, and the one most difficult to actualize, is in fact the house itself, because the old furniture, santos, and carrozas are somehow more "within reach," relatively speaking. Therefore these akyat-bahay stories are anchored on the old houses -- I'll just furnish them (in my mind) later!

emelynt wrote on Apr 23, '07 If I remember correctly, the Dutch door (that splits in half---I think that's what they call them) opens to the dining room? Natatandaan ko yun kasi ang weird to have a door cut in half, or so I thought---what do I know, I was 12? :) Do you remember if there was a huge mural in the dining room (with holes?)--it would;ve been on the left side if you are in the dining room facing the Dutch door. According to Papa's friend, Tom Tecson, holes from swords daw. I saw the house in 1979 and I was impressed with the bathroom (! you pull the chain to flush the toilet.) and the wooden planks. Is the old grandfather clock still there? I recall leaving my parents (they were looking at the carrozas) and the Tecsons to go upstairs to the bathroom when the clocked struck 4. I must have jumped down the stairs sa takot! The Aguinaldo bed (Tom jokingly offered to sell it to my mom for P20,000 and her choice of santo---she refused. the bed and the santos belong to the family she said)---anyway, she said the bed was too small and baka multuhin pa siya ni Aguinaldo. Do you know if Pacita Tecson still owns Rodic's (small restaurant at the UP Shopping Centre)? Our last contact with them was in the mid 80's when they visited Vancouver, BC.

rally65 wrote on Apr 23, '07 Emelyn, you know far more about this house than I do! Yes, I remember the "Dutch door" -- you can see it in one of the photos above. The house was under restoration when I visited, so the mural and the grandfather clock and other art pieces must have been put away to protect them from damage. I know Rodic's, having gone off to UP Diliman myself, but I didn't know that it was owned by a Tecson from San Miguel. Keep on "akyat-bahaying" (is that a word?) !

emelynt wrote on Apr 24, '07 Leo, I just read your profile. I went to UPIS up to Gr.9 (didn't even finish that, we moved to Vancouver) and I remember my first year at UPIS (Gr.6) people were frantic about an exam---you had to be chosen to take it--for Philippine Science High School. I only know two who actually got in. They graduated in 1982 like you (I would've graduated in 82 had I stayed there) . Would you remember Ireneo Salazar ( he's (almost) blond, German mom, Filipino dad) and Benigno Agbayani. We know the Tecson's from way back dahil he was one of the families who formed an exercise group with Papa at the QC Memorial Circle (goal is to reach 100!) in 1974 and Rodic's used to cater regularly. I also remember Tom Tecson as the older gentleman who taught me how to ride a bike! very nice gentleman. I wonder if the couple is still alive.

rally65 wrote on Apr 24, '07 Oh yes, I was at Pisay with Budoy Salazar and Iggy Agbayani. Small world! I really need to get to know the owners of these old houses better. Unfortunately they're almost always not-in-residence. At the time that I visited the Tecson House, the restoration was on-going and the architect / builder engaged by the owners (whoever they might have been at that time) was in charge.

yaj88 wrote on Nov 29, '07 hi there.....i see you were able to take pictures of our house in bulacan. i am a granchild of the owners of the Tecson House, namely Mr. and Mrs. Senen Mendiola. My name is Ma. Angela Mendiola Aguirre. My lola Josefina Tecson Mendiola is the relative of lolo Simon Tecson, the original owner of the house. thank you for taking time to actually visit the house and for the appreciation that goes with it. why dont you visit the town during the holy week?

pinkypink07 wrote on Dec 22, '07 yaj88 said "hi there.....i see you were able to take pictures of our house in bulacan. i am a granchild of the owners of the Tecson House, namely Mr. and Mrs. Senen Mendiola. My name is Ma. Angela Mendiola Aguirre. My lola Josefina Tecson Mendiola is the relative of lolo Simon Tecson, the original owner of the house. thank you for taking time to actually visit the house and for the appreciation that goes with it. why dont you visit the town during the holy week?" hello Ma. Angela, are you related to Concepcion Tecson De la Fuente? i would love to hear from you soon. Thank you!

noniedelaf wrote on Feb 20, '11 pinkypink07 said "hello Ma. Angela, are you related to Concepcion Tecson De la Fuente? i would love to hear from you soon. Thank you!" hi, jay is my niece -- whom I am quite fond of together with her two other siblings -- in any case she is the great grand daughter of Francisco -- Lolo Paco -- Tecson, older brother to Concepcion Tecson de la Fuente -- who is my grandmother.

rally65 wrote on Nov 29, '07 Thanks for your comment, Jay, and for your kind invitation to visit your ancestral house. Any other ancestral houses in San Miguel (or indeed elsewhere) that we can visit? Thanks too for dropping by my website -- please visit regularly!

yaj88 wrote on Nov 30, '07 actually the whole street where our house is located has numerous ancestral houses you can visit..the Cabochan house i think welcomes visitors in. the best way to do it though is to ask the parish priest Father JV if he can help you in checking out some of the ancestral homes there. He is very accomodating and im sure he'd be of help.

lornallames wrote on Jan 29, '08 Hi! I am one of the great granddaughters of Pablo S. Tecson. I would really love to get to know that side of my family. You see, when my grandfather, Jose Tongco Tecson(son of Pablo S. Tecson & Maximiana Paguio Tongco) married my grandmother, he uprooted himself & settled in Bohol. Thus loosing his ties to his family. I would like to get to know his family. Can you help me?

jteclim7 wrote on May 31, '08 I'm also one of the great grandsons of Pablo Tecon. That's if that's the same Pablo Tecson who made history in the Philippines when he cast the last vote to separate the country’s church laws from the state laws, breaking the tie vote. My grandfather is named, Peping. I also lost ties with the Tecson's and would love to get to know this side of my family.

deepsweech wrote on Jun 21, '08, edited on Jun 21, '08 Hi Lornallames and jteclim7, we were also Tecsons from San Miguel(mentioned by mom), my mom always tells us stories about their reunion in san miguel when they were just kids (1950's by my estimate) but they lost ties with the Tecsons when my Grandpa died. Me and my sisters want to hook up with the Tecsons, as we frequently visits Philippines. you can email me at deepsweech@gmail.com

lorelei76 wrote on Oct 14, '08 HI rally65! I'm so thrilled to have seen this post (thank goodness for google.) I've been researching info regarding San Miguel, Bulacan for ages, as we will be visiting family members in November. I'm in search of a guide or someone who can take the young ones (me too!) on a tour of the town/area while the old folks get together to make tsismis and catch up on years of gossip. I grew up in San Miguel - but I'm ashamed to admit that I remember very little outside of the streets that I grew up in (Poblacion - where the San Miguel de Mayumo church is.) There's so little info regarding any kind of tourism industry in the area, and from what I've seen, there's so much history to learn. Do you think you could help? Though I'd love to just wander around the town, I've got a small group of people (a few kids and a friend flying in from Korea) that I'd like to show around. It would help to have someone who is knowledgeable about the local history and flavour, can tell stories and show us around the area.

rally65 wrote on Oct 14, '08 lorelei76 said "Do you think you could help?" I've just sent you a PM -- please check it when you can.

yangma13 wrote on Feb 1, '09 wow!!!!

maryjoycelising wrote on Sep 17, '09 Bulacan is such a nice place... the place where i was born.. thanks for the post i enjoyed reading. mary joyce lising

lennonian316 wrote on Oct 22, '09 i am living just a few blocks away from this house.. The original owner of the house Simon Tecson is the brother of my great grand father Mariano Tecson..

rally65 wrote on Oct 22, '09 lennonian316 said "i am living just a few blocks away from this house.. The original owner of the house Simon Tecson is the brother of my great grand father Mariano Tecson.." Does Mariano Tecson also have an ancestral house, and may it be visited?

lennonian316 wrote on Oct 22, '09 Yes, he also built a big house for his children in 1930.. it is located on Tecson St parallel to Rizal St where the house of Simon Tecson is located. But unfortunately it is now forever gone because the one who bought the house from the previous owner decided to tear it down when he became bankrupt to sell the very expensive woods and other materials from the house. According to my dad who grew up in that house, he considers it far better than the house of Simon although it was constructed only in 1930. Relatives will also prove that. I myself wasn't able to enter and see the beauty of the house. I have a picture of the house.

rally65 wrote on Oct 22, '09 lennonian316 said "Yes, he also built a big house for his children in 1930.. it is located on Tecson St parallel to Rizal St where the house of Simon Tecson is located. But unfortunately it is now forever gone because the one who bought the house from the previous owner decided to tear it down when he became bankrupt to sell the very expensive woods and other materials from the house. According to my dad who grew up in that house, he considers it far better than the house of Simon although it was constructed only in 1930. Relatives will also prove that. I myself wasn't able to enter and see the beauty of the house. I have a picture of the house." What a sad story. But thanks for the history -- I saw the photo you posted on your site.

12kathie wrote on Feb 16, '10 we are planning to go here actually, uhm, can you inform me if there is an entrance fee and the exact location of this destination. probable landmarks maybe. thank you. god bless.

rally65 wrote on Feb 16, '10 12kathie said "we are planning to go here actually, uhm, can you inform me if there is an entrance fee and the exact location of this destination. probable landmarks maybe. thank you. god bless." Unfortunately this house is not operated as a museum, as it is still a private residence. It would therefore be difficult and unlikely to arrange to visit this as a matter of course.

lennonian316 wrote on Feb 16, '10 from what i heard the house now is kept closed by the owner who lives in Manila. even the caretaker lives in a separate house beside it. visitors are now not allowed to enter the house except for relatives. the present owner of the house Tita Pining is my dad's second cousin.

12kathie wrote on Feb 17, '10 aw. thats a bad news. we can not promote it as a destination hopefully. thanks anyway. God bless. =p

recle wrote on Oct 14, '10 Is this Tecson-Mendiola House?

rally65 wrote on Oct 14, '10 Yes, the current owner is a Tecson married to a Mendiola.

atayala2 wrote on Jan 7, '11 A beautiful place to visit, maybe I can visit the place too some other time.